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The Hideout At Flitner Ranch A Premier Cattle Ranch and Resort
Having traveled extensively throughout the west visiting various guest and dude ranches over the years, I’ve come to know what to expect at just about any ranch I go to. Almost all of them offer very good packages, which include good food, accommodations and interesting riding adventures. I guess that’s why when I got to the Flinter Ranch they really knocked my socks off. It’s like no other ranch I’ve ever visited. It starts when you pull into the ranch area. There are lush green lawns, surrounding various ponds and streams tumbling over rocks, which look like hammered silver and everything looks so manicured. The roads and walking trails are all paved in the lodge and cabin area, so there isn’t any dust. There are enormous trees providing shade in different areas. It has a tranquil park like setting. You don’t have the feeling of a hideout, but it is a place to escape.
When you pull up to the main lodge building, you feel like you arrived at a brand new national park lodge log structure. It’s large and pretty impressive. The main floor contains the dinning room, offices, reading area, restrooms, a small gift shop and kitchen along with a small refreshment area that is always available to you twenty-four hours a day. The basement contains the laundry rooms, rest rooms, a large TV in a room, which also has a nice sound system, and then a billiard room. The upper floor has a cocktail lounge and a nice reading area with a great view as does the dinning room. All the main rooms have a nice warm ambiance because of all the wood and western décor. It’s easy to slide into one of the nice overstuffed chairs with a good book or magazine while you wait for dinner or lunch to be served. It’s a very relaxing atmosphere that is created by the building, décor and the owner’s personal touch.
There are several new large log cabins, which are spread out around the main lodge building, and each one of them has two separate sleeping units in them with private baths. The units are very roomy and have a variety of sleeping arrangements. All are equipped with comfortable furniture and beds along with dish TV and western décor. You feel at home as soon as you set foot into them.
The dinner on the evening of your arrival sort of sets the stage for all the rest of the meals. It’s one of the three ranches out of dozens I’ve visited that really offers gourmet dinning. Prior to dinner, all the guests meet up in the cocktail lounge for free beer or wine and delicious hors d’oeuvres and canapés. If you want hard liquor, you have to purchase that. It’s sometimes hard not to eat to many of the appetizers because they are so good. After everyone has had a chance to get to know each other we all head down to dinner.
There is always a variety of fine wine flowing around the table at dinnertime; there is one that will go well the entrée for the evening. There is always an eclectic salad with delicious and fresh made dressings and plenty of homemade bread. The entrée will vary from sesame-encrusted salmon to tender filet mignon or maybe medallions of buffalo or elk with a special glaze as well as pork or chicken. Every dinner is a delectable revelation that is a delight to the taste buds. Deserts are the Coup De Grace to grand meals. Believe me, you don’t want to miss any of the three meals a day at the ranch.
Of course the reason for being at any ranch is the riding and outdoors adventure along with the beautiful scenery you encounter during your rides. You won’t be disappointed by anything in the area either. After your riding/horse orientation, which takes place the first morning at the arena and then is followed by a short ride, you have the afternoon available for a short half-day ride. One of the options is to ride to Devil’s Leap. Now, the name is a little misleading. I think it should be called Rover’s Thrown, but I’ll let them tell you the story. The other option is riding in the painted hills. Both rides take you into some interesting geology with a lot of color. You should always keep you eyes peeled for anything that looks out of place, because you could find something from the period of dinosaurs, the cretaceous, or something from the paleogene in the form of mammals. There are some dinosaur dig sites in the area you have an opportunity to visit if you’re so inclined. Always have a camera with plenty of film in your saddlebags, as there are many beautiful vistas.
The ranch has a nice string of their own horses and a very able wrangler staff who are always there for your assistance. One of the wranglers is also an excellent cowboy singer who can hold his own with the best of them. He entertains on one of the evenings after dinner in the cocktail lounge. The staff overall is excellent.
After the first day, you have opportunity for a lot of different options in riding. Most of the rides take you up into the Big Horn Mountains, which is one of my favorite areas for horseback riding because of the beauty, geology and terrain. Some people opted for pushing cattle for a day or two, while others could just go on an enjoyable half or all day ride into the mountains. You also have the opportunity to do an overnight trip into the high camp Hideout. Now, you might think of an austere or Spartan accommodation in a high remote location, but nothing could be farther from the truth. The cabins at the upper Hideout are the same comfortable accommodations as you have at the ranch headquarters. The food and libations are just about the same as well. There is a main lodge log building at the upper Hideout as well where you take all your meals or just relax. If you’re having a family get together, either the upper Hideout or the main ranch are perfect places to have such a function.
But there is even more. There is a third place at 8,600’ on the 250,000-acre ranch even more remote than the upper Hideout called The Snowshoe Lodge. It is open year round and is manned by a staff of congenial Belgian folks who are all related. They call themselves, “The Belgian Slaves”. They make you feel like you’re in some cozy remote European mountain setting. And shortly, they will make it seem even more European because you’ll be able to get real Belgian beer up there, aside from the great food. During the summer months you can go up there and just relax or you can go mountain biking, horseback riding, hiking or fishing. During the winter months you can snowmobile, snowshoe, hike and go dogsledding, cross-country skiing or randonee. You can spend a day, a week or just a meal with the folks at the Snowshoe. It’s a beautiful setting, probably even more so during the winter months.
They have three small log cabins, each of them is different, and they are cozy and romantic and would be a great place to spend a week in the high country with your significant other. They also have a hot tub and sauna you can enjoy year round. If you really wanted to get away from it all and really relax, this is the place to do it. A great place to write a book or rethink your lifestyle.
Now this great place happened for a reason. Dave and Paula Flitner have spent a lot of time, money and heart & soul to make this ranch/hideout the unique and grand place that it is. Dave, who is a third or fourth generation rancher in the area and Paula, who is from Belgium decided they wanted to do something really unique and offer people an experience found nowhere else. They have succeeded in their endeavor. Once you’ve spent a week here, all the other places will pale in comparison. There have been guests that came for a week that ended up spending two or three weeks here because they didn’t want to leave. I can understand that, I didn’t want to leave either.
Currently, the main ranch is open from April 1st through Nov. 15th. They are looking at having the main ranch open year round starting next year. The Snowshoe Lodge is open all year.
For a memorable vacation all you have to do is contact:
The Hideout at Flitner Ranch P.O. Box 206 Shell, WY 82441
800-354-8637 307-765-2681 Fax
www.thehideout.com
info@thehideout.com
www.thesnowshoelodge.com
info@thesnowshoelodge.com
307-899-8995 for Snowshoe Lodge 307-765-2681 Fax
word count 1484
Author Jerry Sinkovec 2915 Estrella Brillante NW Albuquerque, NM 87120 505-836-1206 photojournalistjerry@juno.com
The Heber City Cowboy Poetry Gathering & Buckaroo Fair
The Heber City Cowboy Poetry Gathering & Buckaroo Fair held November 6-11th was one grand event. It was the 13th annual such gathering. I was surprised that such a small town nestled in the mountains east of the ski areas could pull off such an extravaganza. Heber City and Midway are bedroom communities to each other and both held events. The Swiss Mormons settled both towns and Swiss architectural style and décor could be seen everywhere. It added a nice feeling to the gathering. Even many of the newer structures being built there are carrying on the same style and keeping the tradition alive.
There were seven main shows with great entertainers from around the country. Some of the other events included a Cowboy Poetry Train ride down the Heber Valley that included lunch and all the name entertainers rotating thru the cars and entertaining during the two plus hour ride. A Horseshow Extravaganza at the Wasatch County Events Center that contained many different horse shows and entertainers, a Colt Starting Clinic, a Cowboy Gear & Gift Show, and a Buckaroo Dance. John Wayne movies were shown at a local movie house and a Guitar and Fiddle Workshops was run by world-renowned Rich O’Brien and there were many other events including a Mountain Man Trader Camp. There was always something to do or to see during the gathering. The food served by Eddie Dean BBQ out of Texas was also very good and was always available at the school auditorium location during the week. It’s the same BBQ that President Bush orders in at the ranch when he is entertaining there. There were also some good restaurants to explore in both towns.
It was also an opportunity for some of the younger up-and-coming singers and songwriters to perform their work. There were two young fifteen-year-old girls that provided outstanding performances. Adrian Brannan from Northern California writes and sings about her ranch experiences and the cowboy way of life. She had a voice that seemed many years older than her age; it was impressively strong and clear. Carin Mari of Colorado was the National Champion Yodeler and sings with her two brothers also had a sweet light voice that carried well. Root Beer Reunion was another act of two young brothers performing traditional songs.
Waddie Mitchell hosted all the main events and entertainers and did an outstanding job with his great repertoire of stories and poetry. He made you laugh so much your belly ached. He is always so enjoyable on or off the stage. Curly Musgrave of California, an old friend, and always a great singer and songwriter of the American West recently teamed up with Belinda Gail, another great cowgirl singer to become a sensational duo. Their voices offer great counterpoint and also harmonize beautifully. They are the Dynamic Duo of cowboy music and song. WOW. Riders in the Sky and Sons of the San Joaquin both preformed during the week and brought the audiences to their feet. Both groups make your heartstrings twang. You can never seem to get enough of either group. Also entertaining during the week was Rich & Valerie O’Brien, Ramblin’ Jack Elliott (A living legend in his lifetime), Gary McMahan, Yvonne Hollenbeck and Kip Calahan from the boot heel of New Mexico. Baxter Black was his usual animated self, rolling around on the stage, which had the audience rolling around in the aisles. He kept them laughing, clapping and asking for more. It seems the audiences can never get enough of Baxter or Waddie’s style of fun and entertainment.
Dave Stamey is a cowboy singer and songwriter whose name I had never run across before. He is from California and this was his first time at this event. I was surprised by his great voice and grand repertoire of songs and melodies. Cowboys & Indians Magazine has called Dave Stamey the “Charlie Russell of Western Music”. It’s a well-deserved laurel. He captured me with his descriptive tales of experiences and lore in the American West and a voice that carried all the emotion contained therein.
Michael Martin Murphey paired up with the local school Philharmonic Symphony Orchestra and put on a wonderful show with music from various periods of the western U.S. It was also as tribute to Colen Sweeten a poet and western philosopher who recently passed away. It reminded me of Waddie Mitchell’s and Don Edwards’s collaboration with the Fort Worth Symphony Orchestra. It’s a beautiful stroll through the history and music of the West. There were also Jam Sessions and Open Microphone events where the aspiring musician, singer, songwriter or poet could test the corral dust so to speak.
The Bar J Wranglers from Jackson Hole, Wyoming were also entertaining the crowds with great music and song and their ranch humor. They normally operate a Chuck wagon Dinner show during the summer months and tour the United States during the off-season. They sure know how to grab the audience’s attention. Another group called, “Sons and Brothers” brought their style of music and song called WestGrass to the festival, which is their unique blend of Western, Gospel, Bluegrass and Old Time Fiddle Music.
Some of the other groups and individuals providing music, song and poetry were; Stampede, Andy Nelson, Chris Isaacs, Jess Howard, Kent Rollins, Saddle Strings, Jeff Carson, Jim Bone, In Cahoots, Latigo, Gary Russell, Highway 40, Brook Turner, and Richard Espinoza
The last show of the event was the dinner show held at the Zermatt Resort and Spa. Dave Stamey along with Curly Musgrave and Belinda Gail were the headliners for this show and it was packed. As a matter of fact all the shows were sold out throughout the gathering. It says something about the quality of entertainment for the whole gathering. This night it was no different. The food served was outstanding, but there was no liquor available when we first arrived, it was some sort of oversight. Great food deserves good wine or beer to make it a memorable meal. Someone mentioned it to Tom Whitaker, Trail Boss and Director for the event. Within minutes we had a full bar available to us with a fantastic selection of wines and microbrewery beers from Wasatch Brewing in Park City. Their beers are outstanding and warrant a visit to their brewery and restaurant down the road. Tom was a very gracious host and picked up the bar tab for all those that enjoyed the wine or beer. But that was typical for the way things are done in these small communities.
I was surprised that I never heard of the Heber City Gathering, but I found out that the state of Utah gave the gathering funds to advertise out of state for the first time, and that’s how I heard about it. We have all been missing a great time for the last twelve years. Now you have no reason to be apart of one or the nations best gatherings, one that will be giving Elko a run for their money.
Aside from all the great entertainment, music, song, poetry, and food, what I really liked about it was that it was so intimate and cozy at all the venues. It was a unique experience that will be long remembered.
If you want to double your fun when you come to the gathering next year, I suggest you make your reservations at the Zermatt Resort & Spa as it is the newest hotel/inn in the area with not only great accommodations, but offers fine dinning as well along with their own bakery. They also have the spa, exercise rooms and a swimming pool for your relaxation along with steam room and sauna. But, what’s really nice is that’s where Waddie and many of the other entertainers also stay. And when the last show is over, it all starts over again at the Zermatt. I actually felt a little sad when I left on Sunday. Sad that all the fun was over and now there were only the memories that would last forever. The weather changed and apparently the clouds felt the same way as their tears began to fall.
For next years Heber City’s Cowboy Poetry Gathering contact the following for tickets, information or room reservations. Don’t wait, do it now before rooms or seats are sold out.
Zermatt Resort & Spa 1-866-ZERMATT http://zermatt.dolce.com
Cowboy Poetry Gathering 1-800-345-9198 www.hebercitycowboypoetry.com
1-435-654-0201
Western Jubilee 1-800-707-2353 www.westernjubilee.com
The above is for CD’s of some of your favorite cowboy singers and poets.
Wasatch Brew Pub 1-435-649-0900 http://wasatchbeers.com
Word Count 1423 ©
Author: Jerry Sinkovec 208-523-1545
photojournalistjerry@msn.com
Monument Valley
Having ridden in most of the western states, I’m never surprised by the beauty and vistas that are open to the horse rider just about anywhere you go. But I was in for a surprise when I visited Monument Valley recently. The valley covers a large section of the northeastern corner of Arizona and extends into Utah as well. It’s all located within the Navajo Indian Reservation.
Don Donnelly Stables headquartered in Gold Canyon, AZ offers one-week packages in the Navajo Tribal Park in spring and fall when it’s a little cooler, and other locations in Arizona throughout the year as well. They have an agreement with the Navajo Nation to provide rides in the park and with Suzie Yassie, a living legend as a weaver whose land they camp on.
The adventure starts with a meeting and dinner Saturday night in Gallup, NM where everyone has a chance to get acquainted and information is provided to the riders. The next morning we are transported by van to the valley with a stop en-route at the historic Hubbell Trading Post.
Camp is situated among the red rock formations in the center of the valley. Beautiful vistas are all around you. I wouldn’t really call it camping with all the creature comforts provided. There are large tents provided (for 1 or 2 people) which you can stand up in and have ample room for all your gear. Comfortable cots with deep foam pads are provided as well as sleeping bags with comfortable removable liners and pillows and fresh pillowcases. The tents are located near a large trailer, which contains six showers with hot water and a line of sinks on the exterior. You never have to wait in line for a shower or the portable toilets, as there is an ample supply of them as well.
The other two areas of camp are the corral areas where the horses and tack are kept and the kitchen and dinning areas. The kitchen and dinning areas are comprised of two large covered but open tents where all the meals are served. There are always plenty of cold drinks on hand at any time of the day as well as coffee. You’ll never be hungry while there as the meals are more than adequate in portions and you can always go back for seconds if necessary. When you return from a ride they always have some hors d'oeuvres ready for you. Now, how often have you been riding where that has happened before?
On the day of arrival you only have the opportunity for a half-day ride, but it’s an eye-opening ride and gives you a taste of what the rest of the week will be like. It also gives you an opportunity to check out the horse your riding, and if it doesn’t suit your fancy, you can ride another one the following day or for the rest of the week. They have a great selection of horse stock and you’ll be happy with one of the horses they provide for you. You want to be sure your comfortable with the bangtail your riding and that you can control him well as there will be some exciting areas you’ll be riding through during the course of the week, which have some exposure. The wranglers have a lot of experience and can help you with any problems or questions you may have.
There are plenty of opportunities for trotting and loping (burning the breeze) across the countryside every day so you’ll be able work with your horse at a variety of different paces and on different terrain. On every ride there will be several wranglers and/or guides, who will explain the country, you’re riding through. Usually one or two of them will be Navajo and they will inform you of the rich history and the traditions of the Navajo. Lonny is the son of Suzie Yassie and can tell you a lot of the history of the Navajo people and his family during the rides as well as providing some entertaining Navajo Indian chanting. When you leave camp, just be sure you have plenty of film in your saddlebags. Most riders tended to run out of film pretty quickly as they were shooting two or three rolls a day. There is just so much beauty around every turn you take and new vistas over ever rise you’ll be out of film before you know it. All of the delicate red rock spires and massive rock formations are in the Wingate Sandstone Formation, which overrides the Chinle Sandstone below. The reason for all the rock spires and other monuments is that the Wingate Sandstone was laid down in such a way with enormous pressures from above that it tends to crack on a vertical plane whereas the Chinle Sandstone tends to crack on a horizontal plane. This is what made the valley so spectacular when the Wingate Sandstone was uplifted millions of years ago.
On one of the first full day rides we headed east to an area where the spire The Totem Pole is located. Most of the time you can ride abreast with other riders rather than nose to tail as is found on most trail rides. It’s a lot more enjoyable as it offers you the chance to carry on a conversation with someone next to you without having a 180-degree twist in your neck, or you can wander around and see some things you might otherwise miss. It offered just about every type of riding terrain you could think of. From flat packed surfaces to rolling sand hills and up to narrow trails, which curve around monolithic rock walls on one side and falling away slopes on the other. Every twist and turn in the trail offered even more breathtaking views than the last. Your constantly amazed at the many different color variations in the red sandstone, the streaking and staining of the massive rock walls, the contrast of the red rock and the green vegetation, the light and shadow, the desert varnish, which has formed over the millennia, and the many intricate shapes and forms which create images you can recognize and have a corresponding name. It’s hard to take in all the beauty, and it’s always changing. As you ride across the park, and the sun races across the sky, the light is ever changing and so do the vistas you saw earlier. It’s an ever-changing panorama of blue sky and red rock and sand that seems more interesting than it did just a few hours ago.
Every day you head out into a new direction and see new vistas and experience narrow canyons with their own little microclimates. Its places like this that offer plenty of shade and the perfect place to stop for lunch and a siesta for both riders and horse. Every day and ride is different from the previous ride and offers still more interesting scenery and experiences.
The week we were there, we were lucky to have several heavy thunderstorms hit us just after lunch one day, as we rode out of the narrow shaded canyon we used for lunch. It only rained very hard for about twenty minutes, but in those twenty minutes the park was transformed. On all the high massive walls of the larger monuments, waterfalls began cascading down, some falling free for hundreds of feet, others tumbling down a hundred feet or more to another level only to fall another hundred feet or more to another level and so on until the water reached the valley floor. Some were clear as the rain falling from the sky and others turned a rusty red color as they carried a lot of soil down off the tops of the monuments. The park was transformed into a water world with waterfalls everywhere. As we continued our ride into the lower country, the streambeds that were empty earlier suddenly changed. At first there was only some slow moving foamy water we could see as it ambled down the twisting dry riverbed. Minutes later it was a torrent of churning muddy water. It was a totally different experience, all in the matter of minutes. Just about every day Lonny Yassie would take us to some Indian ruins from the Anasazi, or he would show us some petroglyphs and pictographs panels or some grain storage sites. They seemed to be everywhere.
Every night, after a filling dinner and desert, they have entertainment around the campfire. While we were there they had a cowboy singer, songwriter and poet by the name of Ernie Sites entertaining us, and entertain us he did. He writes many of the songs he sings, but he knows many of the old favorites as well. He’s worked with Waddie Mitchell and other notables, so he has the talent and the voice. It’s a perfect way to end a perfect day of riding; sitting under the stars and the Milky Way and catching a meteorite or two as they flash by with music and song that carries you back to the good old days of the cowboy life. Once you hear his music, you’ll want to buy some of his CD’s. He has two great CD’s out titled, “Great American Hero” and “Saddle Bags & Wishes”. He also travels around the states doing special entertainment programs for young kids as well.
Riding in Monument Valley with Don Donnelly Stables is one of the most visually exciting riding experiences you can have. It’s also fun and informative. An experience you wouldn’t soon forget, nor the friends you’ll make. There was one fellow who wore Cinnamon colored tights when he rode so he wouldn’t get sore. He ended up with the moniker “The Cinnamon Kid”. And Ernie, who was so proud of being from Idaho and his potatoes ended up with the handle of “Curly Fries”. There were times I was laughing so hard I ached.
For more information on the Monument Valley Ride or any of the other Don Donnelly rides or travel information contact the following:
Don Donnelly Horseback Vacations 6010 S. Kings Ranch Road Gold Canyon, AZ 85218 800-346-4403 www.dondonnelly.com
Ernie Sites CD’s Sites & Sounds Music 237 6th Ave. East Wendell, ID 83355 208-536-2061 www.sitesandsounds.com
Arizona Office Of Tourism 1100 W Washington St Phoenix, AZ 85007-2935 800-842-8257
New Mexico Tourism 491 Old Santa Fe Trail Santa Fe, NM 87501 800-545-2070 800-733-6396 Travel & Lodging Guides
1745 word count
Author Jerry Sinkovec 5045 Brennan Bend Ammon, ID 83401
208-523-1545 photojournalistjerry@msn.com
Being With and Under The Stars
Utah has some spectacular areas in which to ride. The Bryce Canyon area is one of them. Combine that with riding with cowboy singer and activist Michael Martin Murphy, and camping out under the stars makes for a memorable riding experience.
This experience starts off with staying at the historic Ruby Inn located just outside Bryce Canyon where Michael Martin Murphy entertains at the Inn’s rodeo arena for which you are given tickets. Later that evening, a welcome party with plenty of finger food is held in the Ruby Inn where riders and entertainer get acquainted. The Ruby Inn is actually like a small city with all the shops and services available you would ever need. As a matter of fact, I would recommend going there a day or two early so you have a chance to do and see some of the things you won’t have an opportunity to do while on the ride. You won’t regret it. The accommodations and food at the inn were very pleasant. They can help you with seeing some of the other attractions or activities in the area. And if you need something, you’ll find it at the Ruby Inn.
The next morning we pack up and go out to the area where we’ll camp for the next few days and head out into different areas on horseback exploring the many vistas and geology of this scenic area. Each day we rode out into a new area, new vistas open up and more photographs are taken. There are brilliant colors everywhere. Bring plenty of film. There are historic sites as well. This is Butch Cassidy country, and the opportunity is there to visit some of his haunts. There is even an area named after him where he had a standoff with one of the local sheriffs. One of the highlights of the trip was riding the Escalante Grand Staircase, which offered some of the most spectacular scenery on the trip. There was some steep climbing and descents on rock, which made for some exciting riding. It was also one of the more trying and longer rides of the trip. The horses seemed stout and sure footed, so there wasn’t anything to worry about. Each day, we were always anxious to get back to camp to see what pleasant surprises awaited us.
After our horses were taken care of, everyone headed back to the cook tent to relax and wash the trail dust out of their system. There was plenty to choose from, but I think they should offer some local or regional microbrewery selection as well. Joe Bob from Pagosa Springs, CO, our chuckwagon cook, or Coosie always had a pleasant surprise for us for dinner. It was fun trying to guess what he was preparing for that evening from the great aromas floating through the air. Having done to many trail rides, cattle drives and remudas to mention, I have to say in all honesty it was the best dam chuckwagon cooking I’ve ever run across. The portions were large and a delight to your taste buds. And if you ate fast enough, you could get back for seconds before anyone else did. I don’t know if you can rate a chuckwagon as a three or five diamond dinning facility, but I would.
After the sunset and everyone had their fill of dinner, Michael would bring out his guitar and his two accompanists would join him for a delightful evening of cowboy music under the stars. He’d play some of the old favorites and some of his own work as well. We’d also have a chance to sing along as well if so inclined. In addition, on some evenings there would be invited guests from the area who could tell you about the local history and /or the geology of the area. There was one old gentleman who as a youngster met Butch Cassidy. He had some interesting stories to tell. We also had Jeff Warburton from Sawtooth Saddle out of Vernal, Utah give us a talk on saddles and saddle making which was very interesting. If your thinking about getting a good saddle and your interested in an old time saddle from the 1870’s, 1880’s or 1890’s, this is the outfit you want to talk to. They also make contemporary riding and competition saddles as well.
With each day staring out with a great breakfast, then having a great day on the trail, and finishing it off with a great dinner and cowboy music by Michael Martin Murphy, it all seemed like a dream. A dream that passed to quickly. I wished it had lasted a day or two longer, for I was in no rush to get home. One of the other benefits of riding with Michael Martin Murphy is that a portion of the fee you pay to ride with him for the four, five or six days, goes to help develop and maintain the Colorado Trail, a non profit organization. If you prefer, you can also specify what trail fund you would like your contribution to go to, be it in Arkansas, Illinois or Wyoming. Michael is involved with many other things that are cowboy, but they all evolve around preserving and promoting the cowboy heritage and culture and that of the west as well, be it in song, activism or organizations.
Michael also offers rides in Monument Valley, AZ, The Colorado Trail, CO, Yellowstone, MT, West Virginia and in New Mexico where you and your horses board an old steam train in Chama, NM to a wilderness area for some great riding. There are many other locations where he leads ride, including one to Ireland. For information on any of the rides contact:
Rocking 3M Summit Trail Adventures Attn: Willard Foreman 6150 Highway 73 Evergreen, CO 80439 Or call 877-856-2815 E-mail: adam6150@aol.com www.summittrails.com
The Ruby Inn 800-468-8660 Joe Bob’s Chuck Wagon 970-264-2550 Sawthooth Saddle 435-789-5400 Bryce Canyon Country Info. 800-444-6689
Words 994 Author: Jerry Sinkovec
photojournalistjerry@msn.com
Cowboys And Their Music
Much hasn’t changed in the last one hundred years in cowboy music, the songs have remained the same, and just the singer’s names and band names have changed along with some of the arrangements. No notable new music has been written in the last one hundred or more years, but all that is changing dramatically. There are new names and groups that are bringing a new sound, feeling and meaning to the old songs and other songwriters/singers that are bringing forth a whole new genre of songs and music with depth and feeling even greater than the old hits. Three people are having a great influence on cowboy music that is going to change the way cowboy music is appreciated and interpreted and what they are going to hear. The sounds are better than ever. The three artists are Brenn Hill and his two accompanists and David Wilke the leader of the group Cowboy Celtic and Jim Musgrave.
Brenn Hill, 24, songwriter and singer was born and raised in the heart of the Wasatch Mountains of Utah and started professional performing at the age of sixteen at the prestigious Cowboy Poetry Gathering at Elko, NV. His first singing performance was at the age of four. Is he the Mozart of cowboy music? More than likely, only time will tell, but it seems he has all the talent and personality to be a star singer and songwriter, and his star has been moving upward since he was awarded the “Rising Star Award” by the Academy of Western Artists. Since that time he has toured throughout the West and performed at festivals such as the Santa Clarita Cowboy Poetry and Music Gathering, the Arizona Cowboy Poets Gathering, Michael Martin Murphy’s WestFest, the Elko, Nevada Cowboy Poetry Gathering, and the Western Music Association Festival in Tucson. He has opened for such artists as Chris Ledoux, Teri Clark, Ian Tyson, Don Edwards, Rhett Akins, Red Steagall, and Michael Martin Murphy.
Brenn has an intimate detailed knowledge and a real sensitivity to the cowboy and western environment he writes and sings about. His songs celebrate a way of life in the past and present as well. He paints a broad sweeping, colorful, and intimately detailed canvas with powerful but soft brush strokes of words and melodies never heard before. Brenn Hill’s vocals will capture your imagination and take you on a journey somewhere in the west. His music will carry you to a variety of locations, sitting around a smoky campfire, pushing a remuda cross country on a brisk morning, watching an Eagle soar overhead, or noticing the frost covered ground. His subject matter is interesting and stirring, and is generally from his own life experiences. His arrangements create a mood, which stirs the emotional strings of your heart, and penetrate to the very marrow of your bones. His voice is soft and clear and expresses the mood of the songs perfectly. In the entire history of cowboy music, there has never been anyone like Brenn Hill who writes and sings such touching songs of a way of life that is dear to him. When performing outdoors, and a passerby hears his voice and music, they are drawn to him like a moth to light. He’s a truly creative songwriter and composer.
Brenn Hill has two self-released recordings available entitled Rangefire (1997), and Deeper than Mud (1999). A third recording, entitled Trail through Yesterday, (2000), was released on the Real West Productions label of Lafayette, Colorado. He continues to write and sing about an endangered way of life. His music is largely about people who do what they do because they love it—real people who live a lifestyle they would not trade for money. And its obvious Brenn loves what he does as well.
“The best new artist I’ve heard is Brenn Hill. You just don’t know him yet.”8 Chris Ledoux, Country Weekly Magazine
Brenn’s CD’s are available from Four Winds Distribution at 800-456-5444. They also have catalogs of cowboy and Native American music as well. For booking information and performance locations call 801-721-1400.
Cowboy Celtic has energized the cowboy music scene with their interpretations of the old standards everyone knows so well. The difference is their knowledge of the origins of most of the cowboy music and their scoring and accompaniment of the music based on the new information. Most of the old cowboy music was based on ancient songs and melodies written in Scotland, Ireland or Wales anywhere from the 13th to the 17th century. The drovers from those countries brought the music with them when they came over in the 18th and 19th centuries. What Cowboy Celtic has done is put the Celtic influence back into the music to create an original sound to cowboy music which everyone enjoys and is stimulated by.
Their music will carry you back to the times when history was being made in the west. If you close your eyes and relax, you’ll find yourself on the set of one of your favorite films. Their music often reminds me of the Michael Cimino’s film “Heaven’s Gate”, which came out in the late eighties. They haven’t written a score for a major film as yet, but they have done work on many documentaries in Canada. It’s only a matter of time before they’re found by one of the major studios to score their next epic western here in the states.
There are many songs that came across the sea to become popular cowboy songs. A melody known as The Bard of Armagh in Ireland became the popular Streets of Laredo, and a traditional Irish song about drinking until dawn, Nil Se-Ina Lathe, became the haunting Border Affair.
David Wilke currently has two CD’s available, Cowboy Celtic and Cowboy Ceilidh, with a third becoming available after the first of the year. The CD’s are available from Western Jubilee at 800-707-2353. Scott O’Malley & Associates is the booking agent and can be reached at the same number.
Curly Jim Musgrave was born in Canada, now lives in California and has worked in many other locations as well. His heart is in his work, and it shows in his music. His songs reflect on a cowboy’s relationship with those around him and with life as a cowboy today and as it was over 100 years ago as well. He is one of the newer cowboy singer/songwriters to arrive on the scene, and one to watch as his star is a rising.
I first heard him in Branson, Mo.; a year ago at Cowboy’s Hero’s and Friend’s, and his songs and music captured my heart. He introduced his newest song, which is entitled, El Gringo De Ramona Linda, at Branson. It’s a passionate song about a Califoranio’s Vaquero’s love of his woman and his concern over a newly arrived American cowboy. Curly Jim has introduced s new element into cowboy music that has forever changed its content. His newest CD, Cowboy True, has several titles that are tops overseas; Montana Songbird has been number one in Europe, and Becky O is number three. Another song from the same CD, Boys of the Rockin’ R, is a true picture that he paints with words in song to describe the location and the wranglers, Mick and Kade, who worked at the ranch.
Curly Jim Musgrave’s first CD, Born To Be A Cowboy, was a good seller, but his newest, Cowboy True, is topping the charts. Curly can be contacted with reference to bookings at: Jim Musgrave, PO Box 512, Lake Arrowhead, CA, 92352. To order CD’s, phone (909) 338-3508. He can also be reached via E-mail at: curlyjproduction@aol.com.
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Jerry Sinkovec 208-523-1545
Hartley Ranch
When I get fed up with the city, and want to get away for a weekend and forget about business, I look for someplace unique with interesting things to do. The Hartley Ranch located near Roy; NM is one of those places. It’s located on 40,000 acres of geological interesting country. The ranch headquarters is rimed on three sides by Dakota Sandstone bluffs. It’s a working ranch, and where cows now roam, Woolly Mammoth grazed and were hunted by early Indians. There are a variety of things to see and do while there. It’s an ideal place for couples or a great escape for the entire family for a week or weekend. The drive to the ranch is interesting in itself. You cross the Canadian River and the marvelous canyon it cut over the eons along with other interesting rock formations.
The ranch is open to guests from early April through October. The accommodations are comfortable and include a private bath and kitchen, if you’re so inclined. They keep snacks, fruit and cold drinks always available in the kitchen. All meals are with the Hartley family in their home, which allows you to enjoy good home cooked meals. Believe me, you’ll never be hungry during your visit.
With such a vast beautiful area to explore, the Hartley Ranch provides you with 4 wheel ATV’s to travel the countryside. You’re provided with a safety course and a guide before you take off on your adventure. The ATV’s will take you to the tops of the bluffs where you can view the magnificent scenery and take photographs. Along the way, there will be stops where you can view a Mammoth tusk still half buried in the earth, Indian petroglyphs and ancient camp and work sites abound on the ranch. There is one very interesting petroglyph panel that requires a little hike to a rock shelter. Be sure to bring a camera. There are some large petroglyphs on a large rock wall on the East side of the valley; it also has some tool sharpening marks. In the same area you’ll find round holes ground into the rock where the Indians ground meal or other items for paint. What makes it so exciting is you never know when you’ll find something that’s been overlooked by someone else. A heavy rain always uncovers new things. You’ll see wildlife and interesting canyons, petrified trees, waterfalls and rock formations carved by fast flowing intermittent streams. The Hartley’s have been on the land for four generations, and they have collected many interesting items, from Mammoth teeth to mortar and pedestal tools the Indians left behind. Be sure to ask them to see some of the items they’ve collected. You’ll see some items you’ve never seen before, even in a museum. If you would like a slower pace, you can horse back ride to many of the same sites or just roam around the ranch area, or maybe rustle some cattle, just don’t get caught. The kids can go swimming or use the paddleboat on one of the small lakes. There is some great fishing in the lakes, and the kids along with the big kids will get a kick out of catching plenty of Pan fish, Bass and Catfish. If you just want to relax bring a good book and lay back in the lounge area.
There is also a lot of history in the area. The Bell ranch, so named because of a butte on the land, which is almost adjacent to the Hartley spread, was designated as both a national and state historic site. The ranch had its beginning back in 1824. Also, if you decide to return via highway 419 to Las Vegas, be sure to get directions to the historic Spanish site along the Canadian River. It’s worth a visit. You’ll find that it’s on both sides of the highway west of the river.
For information on the ranch write: Hartley Ranch, HCR 73 Box 55, Roy, NM 87743 or call: 1-800-687-3833 for reservations.
683 words
Jerry Sinkovec 208-523-1545
History at the TA Ranch
The Historic TA Ranch south of Buffalo, WY, where the Johnson County War took place in 1892, which changed the way cattle ranching was conducted, is doing more than it’s share at preserving the west and the history of the west. The ranch offers all the standard ranch experiences such as riding lessons, trail rides which are either fast or slow, cook-outs, cattle drives and remudas, fence mending and the like. But they have embarked on a program of offering seminars on all aspects of the development and history of the west, as well as then latest information and technology to operate a profitable ranch in today’s market. The ranch is dedicated to preserving the history, heritage, and culture of the West, Wyoming and the Cowboy.
This past summer, they held their first three-day seminar on the Gunfighters of the West, which was completely sold out. The two guest speakers were Leon Metz and Bill O’Neal. Both are well known authors of many books on the gunfighters and the west. Bob Edwards, a military historian from the Buffalo area, gave a talk and live fire demonstrations on many of the weapons used in the development of the west from the 1860’s onward. We also had the chance to fire all the same weapons. Many of the attendees were attired in period clothing from the 1880’s in keeping with the theme of the seminar. Discussions covered topics such as; Gunfighter Origins, Gunfighters Art & Gear, The Best Gunfighters, Gunfighters in the Movies, Social Banditry, Outlaws as Gunfighters, Best Gunfight of all Time and other related topics. We toured the ranch where one of the largest and longest gunfights of all time took place, as well as The Hole In The Wall made famous by Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch. On one of the evenings we watched some of the classic old western films. There were cowboy cocktail hours, cowboy music and dancing in period clothing in the evenings which everyone enjoyed.
During the seminar, the Frank Canton house was dedicated at the ranch. Frank Canton was one of the figures involved in the Johnson County War who worked for the cattle barons. His homestead log cabin, which was quite large, was falling apart and almost in complete ruin. The descendents of Frank Canton decided to do something about it. They donated the building to the TA Ranch, which then took the structure apart log by log and then reassembled it at the new location on the ranch and completely refurbished the interior in period decor. The dissembling, moving and reconstruction and decoration cost the TA Ranch over $100,000.00 to preserve the structure. Everyone felt it was worth it to preserve a piece of history as important as it was.
This summer, on July 12th a three-day SASS gunfight took place. For those of you who don’t know what SASS is, it stands for Single Action Shooting Society. They have a shooting competition where you have to shoot a single action pistol, level action rifle and an old time shotgun at different targets at various distances to simulate a gunfight. They had five stages or fields of fire to shoot each day, each being a different scenario or gunfight that took place in that part of Wyoming. There were 15 stages at this event, five each day, and each stage represented a part of the three-day siege at the TA Ranch in 1892 and/or related events. And of course, all the participants are dressed in old time clothing to fit the persona or period they were active in. It’s a great event to participant in but to watch as well. In the future, there will also be mounted shooting as well. Plan to attend.
Following the SASS extravaganza, Craig Cameron, a well-known Texas gentle horse trainer conducted two seminars at the ranch starting on July 16th. The first was a three-day seminar and the second was a five-day seminar, which included a ride to the Hole in the Wall hideout. We broke three colts in the first seminar in addition to gaining a wealth of information on horsemanship which enabled us to ride better and to function better with our horses in a variety of things which they were not used to, including jumping over large objects.
Later this summer, the Western Heritage Institute at the TA Ranch will present, “General Crook’s Campaign Against the Sioux in 1876”. This is truly a unique program taught by author and lecturer John D. McDermott. It will include three tours to the sites of the Reynolds Fight, the Rosebud Battle and Dull Knife Fight. Members of the Crow, Sioux and Cheyenne tribes and seminar participants will dramatically present eyewitness accounts of each battle. Noted firearms authority and collector Bob Edwards will demonstrate the weapons used by the military. The registration is limited to 20 guests and all will stay at the TA Ranch. The cost for the 4-night seminar is $995 and includes all accommodations, food, battlefield tours, lecturers and entertainment.
Future seminars covering the history and development of the west to be held at the ranch will cover topics like; Cowboy Music and it’s Origins, Cowboy Poetry, Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch, The Johnson County War, Cavalry Fights and Indian Wars, The Battle of the Little Big Horn, The Mountain Man Era, and other related topics. Seminars covering; ranch profitability, ranch management, range management, horse breeding and training and cow breeding programs will be covered along with other current topics of interest to the ranching community.
Now where else can you ride the trails of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Crazy Horse, Buffalo Bill Cody and other figures of our history and at the same time have a learning experience like no other. It’s like taking a step back in time. They have a great selection of horses and very able waddie’s. The terrain is ever changing and you have the opportunity for some fast riding. You’ll probably come across some magnificent big game animals as we did on our rides along with finding ancient Indian camping sites and the remains of the buffalo protruding from the washes after the last thunderstorm passed. The Indian and the buffalo were there long before the ranch was established, and you’ll find traces of both as you ride the hills. The big game that we saw were as surprised to see us, as we were to see them. As a matter of fact, this enabled me to get some great photographs of them. You really have to keep your eyes open as to what you’re passing through as you ride, because we were always finding something exciting as we rode. I enjoyed riding slow most of the time because the artifacts we were coming across always surprised us. There are plenty of areas that are safe, and you can let your horse run like the wind. You have the opportunity of doing half or all day rides and at a pace of your choice. The staff was always ready to help if there was something special you wanted to do, and there is plenty to see and do in the area. The ranch is rich in history, and has most all the original buildings. The lodging facilities, which have been recently remodeled, are still in keeping with the feel of the 1890's. The rooms are well appointed, roomy and comfortable. The kitchen, lounge and dining area are all comfortable. Delightful Mexican fare, traditional steaks, and a variety of food dishes left nothing to be desired while dinning at the ranch. The portions were ample, excellently prepared, and a delight to the taste buds. It would be easy to put on some weight if you spent too much time at the ranch. Also this summer, Jane Butel, internationally known Southwestern Chef with her own TV show will be conducting a cooking school at the ranch sometime this summer. For dates contact either the ranch or the Jane Butel Cooking School in Albuquerque, NM.
The ranch was the site of the Johnson County Wars that took place there in 1892. All the hired killers that were employed by the cattle barons, were holed up in the barn when the citizens of the town of Buffalo surrounded them; small ranchers, squatters and rustlers who they were sent to kill. A gunfight ensued that lasted three days. The bullet holes are still in the barn as are the gun ports cut out by the besieged and the gun skirmish pits dug by the townspeople. Research is still being done, artifacts are still being found at the site. There are now plans in the works about doing a three-hour outdoor reenactment of the event, which would be a great show to experience either as a spectator or a participant. Hopefully the script will be completed by the end of the year 2002. Two great movies were made about the war: “Shane” and Michael Cimino’s “Heaven’s Gate”. There are a dozen good books also available about all the events that led up to the war and the war itself.
In the area around the ranch there are also many things to see and do. The Hole in the Wall which Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid made famous is nearby, as is the site where Nate Champion was killed by the hired guns that were on their way to the TA Ranch and Buffalo to kill the townspeople. That is a story in itself. Nate has been immortalized in, “The Ballad of Nate Champion”, as recorded by “David Wilkie and Cowboy Celtic”. The CD also has many other great cowboy songs and music on it as they were played long ago. The group was the 1999 winner of the Cowboy Hall of Fame “Western Heritage Wrangler” Award. They have two CD’s out, and their music is outstanding. Brenn Hill, a young and upcoming cowboy songwriter and singer also has several songs out about the area around the TA Ranch. “Powder River Queen” is just one of the many wonderful songs he’s written and sung on the area. There are several other interesting sites in the area that would keep you busy for a week. The staff can help you on deciding where to go. On the ranch there is fishing available in streams and a man made lake. The also have a great library of books you can borrow, many of them dealing with the history of the area. There is also a great museum in the town of Buffalo, The Gatchell Museum; you’ll want to check out. The town of Buffalo also has many historic buildings in it including the Occidental Hotel where many famous people of our early western history stayed when in the town. After the three day gunfight at the ranch on the final evening, we all went into town and spent the night partying at the Occidental attired in our period gear and packing iron, with the permission of the town sheriff. It was quite a night, and no one got shot. You’re also not that far from the site of The Battle of the Little Big Horn or the many Indian battle sites or cavalry forts. You can also visit the outlaw caves and find Indian petroglyphs and pictographs in the area. You’ll never find yourself wanting for something to do if your so inclined, but at the same time you can lay back with some good reading material or wet a line in one of the streams, or do absolutely nothing.
For information on the ranch, their seminars, the area or events, the following numbers will be of help. T-A Guest Ranch 800-368-7398, 307-684-5833 P.O. Box 313 Buffalo, WY 82834 www.taranch.com web site taranch@trib.com e-mail Buffalo Tourism Area 800-227-5122 Wyoming Tourism 800-225-5996 SASS HQ. In Buffalo 307-684-7058 Ron Faircloth Craig Cameron 800-274-0077 Jane Butel 505-243-2622 Cowboy Celtic CD’s 403-933-2210 Direct or 800-695-4687 from Red House Distributing or from Western Jubilee at 800-707-2353 Brenn Hill CD’s Four Winds Dist. 800-456-5444 or direct at 801-721-1400 Words 2045 Author: Jerry Sinkovec, photojournalistjerry@juno.com
It Makes Horse Sense
Having ridden at many different ranches in the western United States and done different trail rides requiring different degrees of skill, and done cattle drives in many different places, as well as riding in the 7th cavalry for two weeks, I’m amazed that there isn’t some kind of national standard for a persons riding ability.
I’ve done fast trot remudas for a day and a half in Wyoming, cattle drives in several states at a slow or slower pace if they were longhorns, re-enacted in seventh cavalry battles in Montana where your at a full gallop in a cavalry charge with guns firing (and you also saddled, bridled, curried and fed your horse for the two weeks), ridden in trail rides both slow and at a lope in Wyoming, Colorado, New Mexico and Texas. Some of these rides required that I care for the horse I was riding, while on other rides that was handled by a wrangler. At times I may have been asked if I can ride fast, but I don’t remember being asked specifically. If fast and hard riding was required, I just did it, no one ever asked if I had the ability, but I did.
It wasn’t until a recent trip to a couple of dude ranches in Arizona that my ability as a rider was questioned. I was told that I must go on a slow ride, before I can be checked out and tested in the arena, before I can go on a fast ride. That happened at the first ranch I visited, and then a couple of days later at the second ranch as well. Not only that, some wrangler at the first ranch said I had to punch a couple of holes in my three hundred dollar Biltmore hat to attach a stampede string, although none of the male and female wranglers working on the ranch had stampede strings attached to their hats. Since a wrangler always leads a ride, I was very concerned that they didn’t have a stampede string attached, because if their hat did come off, it would go into the horses behind which they were leading and spook them and maybe throw a rider. A very poor policy and great liability risk. I was curious to know if he/she used a stickier super hold hair spray than me or some super duty axle grease to keep his/her hair and hat in place. I’ve had my hat custom fit, and I’ve ridden with it on at a full gallop and never had it fly off, but even though I advised him/her of the situation, it didn’t make any difference. Put on a stampede string for a slow first ride or don’t ride. And to be tested twice in the course of a week and wasting precious time at a resort facility seemed ridiculous to me. Needless to say, I didn’t ride.
It seems to me that with dude ranch associations and other groups all doing the same thing there should be some national identification card issued to riders that states their riding ability. If a card is issued by a ranch in Wyoming or Colorado and says the carrier has the ability to ride at a certain level and/or a full gallop, the ranch in California or Arizona should honor it at face value unless the rider says they haven’t ridden in a while and want’s a check out ride first, etc. There is no reason a person should have to take a check out ride first, before they can ride fast at any ranch, especially twice in a week and waste precious time while on vacation.
There could be five levels or whatever is necessary to categorize the riders ability. Level one being a walk or slow ride and a level five an all out gallop. There could be a further classification like A and B. B’s would be people who could saddle, bridle and maintain the horse issued them, whereas A’s would require everything done for them. The rider would have to do one ride a year at the ability they are classified at to maintain that classification. The back side of the card could have a place for them to stamp it and date it stating the carrier is current. It’s not very difficult, actually quite simple and would save a lot of time for riders and ranch hands as well. It would also save guests from spending time on boring rides. It might even increase the number of riders a facility might see since everyone would have a reason to keep their card current. And it would provide the kind of information and assurance that ranches or stables are concerned about. I’ve been on rides where the wrangler never looked back to see if I had the riding ability or not. The fact that I arrived back at the ranch at the same time as the other riders I guess indicates that I can ride or survive a slow ride at least. It seems to me that leaves the ranches more liable than if they issued a card to the riders stating their ability and honoring it.
Another thing ranches should do is train their wranglers to be a little more diplomatic, and teach them to take people at their word, and be able to size up people and their ability as well. MMMMM, well, I don’t know, a cowboy diplomat? Let me think on that one a while. Maybe I should stay away from dude ranches. I sure hope some group takes action on this subject, and makes every ride for a guest a fun ride. From a bored rider.
Author Jerry Sinkovec words 958
HorseWorks
Now there are plenty of places where you can ride and have a pleasant riding experience. But Horseworks is offering something a little different and allowing you to do the things you enjoy most on their riding trips. They will customize any of their riding trips to suit you or your groups needs. They tend to work with groups up to about twenty in number, and that means you get more personal attention. It’s just one of the many nice things they offer their clients. You can bring your own horses or utilize their fine string of mounts, which they are always improving on, so you’re always assured of getting a good mount. It’s one of the reasons they are a major supplier of horses to the Outlaw Trail Ride. HorseWorks is flexible, because they aren’t a large operation and they are more than happy to customize a ride for you or your group.
HorseWorks is offering remudas, trail rides and cattle drives with a twist if that’s what you’re looking for. Last year, I had the opportunity to ride with them prior to the Outlaw Trail Ride out of Thermoplis, WY. HorseWorks is headquarted at Grass Creek, WY, about 60 miles west of Thermoplis. We had about 30 head of horses to drive to Thermoplis for the other riders of the OTR to use during the 120-mile ride across the Big Horn Mountains. It was a fast remuda of a day and a half being at a fast trot the whole way into town. I enjoyed it, and thought it was a great experience having never ridden cross-country like that before.
This year, they offered a second format on their remuda and cattle drives, but will operate either the fast or slow way depending on what you or your group is looking for in a riding experience. On this season’s remuda, we only rode a half-day each day for a total of three days, which was at a much slower pace, more like a trail ride. It enabled everyone to drive his or her vehicles to the point where we would camp that day. It allowed us to have a more free time and to do some other things, which were important to us. Some people were interested in fishing some of the streams we passed along, while others were interested in photographing the areas we were passing through. Others were interested in resting and relaxing with a good book.
The country around Grass Creek is varied, but mostly rolling hills. Some of the trail rides and the remuda take you through the rolling hill country. You’ll have a chance to see many different types of wildlife and explore the interesting geology in the area. Always make sure to take a camera on you ride because you’ll never know when you’ll have a Kodak moment.
The cattle drives take you to or from the high country and mountains depending on when you do the drive. In spring you’ll be pushing the cattle into the high country and in fall you’ll be bringing them back down. The geology and terrain are entirely different from the other rides they do in the Grass Creek area.
What’s unique about their cattle drives from all the other drives I’ve been on is that they only push the cattle for a half day. You get up at about 5:30 in the morning get your horse and gear ready and start pushing the cattle as soon as everyone is ready. You push them until late in the morning and then have breakfast. You then have the rest of the day to do whatever you’re interested in doing. Some people bring fly-fishing or ultralight gear along and take advantage of the alpine lakes and streams to catch some fresh trout for lunch or dinner. Some people prefer to just continue riding and explore the country they are in. Still others enjoy doing photography or exploring the geology or looking for signs of the Indians being there earlier. Some people only want lay back and do absolutely nothing. The choice is yours. They give the people the opportunity to do whatever interests them for the rest of the day, which makes for a relaxing and interesting cattle drive. This year, I spent a week with them riding in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. Our base camp was located near Big Trails in the southern end of the mountains. There were six other guests, which made for a congenial riding group. Some of the guests opted for camping in tents, while others took advantage of the sheepherder’s wagons that are available as well. Because of the openness of some of the areas we were riding in there were plenty of opportunities for some high speed riding. Most days we packed a lunch and went out on all day rides, exploring a different section on the mountains each day. The geology of the Big Horn Mountains is very interesting. There are many steep narrow canyons that were created during the uplift stage of the mountain building over seventy million years ago. It’s where you’ll find wild game normally hiding during the day. You’ll find caves you can explore, ancient fossils, Indian Teepee rings, and Indian petroglyphs and pictographs you can photograph, depending on where you ride. It all makes for an exciting fun riding vacation.
If your looking for a riding experience that gives you a little more time to yourself so you can enjoy and experience the country your riding through, than give HorseWorks a call, you won’t be disappointed. They offer some of the more interesting areas to ride in the Big Horn Mountains.
For information on Horseworks and a schedule of their rides along with pricing and registration form, contact: HorseWorks Wyoming, 3520 Grass Creek Rd., Grass Creek, WY 82443 307-867-2367, 877-807-2367 or e-mail horsewy@trib.com http://w3.trib.com/~horsewy/
Additional information is available from: Wyoming Tourism 800-225-5996
Words 994
Author: Jerry Sinkovec 5045 Brennan Bend Ammon, ID 83406 208-523-1545 photojournalistjerry@juno.com
Master Horseman Craig Cameron
Recently, while attending a cowboy gathering in New Mexico I noticed a cowboy working horses, which had a large audience surrounding the arena. There was laughter coming from the crowd and there was one distinct voice coming from the center of the arena. It was that of Craig Cameron. I was attracted to the laughter of the crowd, and the cowboy working horses. It was obvious the man had a talent for talking to horses (he doesn’t whisper to them) and the audience as well. It was hard to tell who was listening to Craig more intensely, the horses or the audience. It was obvious everyone was enjoying themselves.
It was enjoyable watching Craig break a halter broke colt many times that weekend. Every time, in under an hour he’d have a saddle on this new horse and be riding him around in the arena. It was amazing to see how easily he handled a horse and took him through a series of exercises until all the spook was out of him. He was gentle yet firm with every horse that he took into the arena. Each horse had is own personality and had to be dealt with a little differently than the last, but the end result was always the same, Craig would have a saddle on him in no time at all and be riding him around. I overheard some old cowpokes sitting next to me say, “He’s the first one I’ve seen that really knows how to talk to and break horses like they should be.”
Now I’ve seen some of the other notable horse whispers, as some like to call them on television or on film, and I have to admit I was impressed by all of them. But there was something about the way Craig communicated with the horses that struck me and the same was true of every person there in the audience. He had a unique way of communicating with the horses and at the same time with the audience. He used humor with the audience and it seemed to work well. You weren’t just learning something, you were learning something and having great fun at the same time, and that helps in retention of what you’re learning.
After watching him break horses for a few days, I knew I wanted to do a story on him because of his unique talents. I introduced myself and talked to him about doing a story on him for one of the horse/trail riding magazines. He was interested, so he invited me to come down to Texas where he has his ranch at Bluff Dale, TX, and spend a few days at one of his horsemanship seminars.
A few months later I was at his ranch, and what a unique place it was. Each of the cabins on the ranch where guest’s stay is a cabin that was dismantled and brought in from some other state or place. The one I stayed in was from Missouri and was built around the 1860’s. It was a large cabin with a loft and a huge fireplace and had loads of atmosphere and was very comfortable. The others were as interesting and as colorful and they all had a little history attached to them. You had the feeling of stepping back in time with all the old lovely buildings around you.
The real centerpiece of the area was the authentic chuck wagon at the dinning area, from which all the meals were prepared and served. No one was ever late for a meal, realizing they would miss a great creation produced by the Coosie. All the meals were delicious and there was always the opportunity for seconds if you had any room left. Some of the evening meals were served with Arizona Strawberries. You’ll never be hungry while at the ranch.
The first day of the seminar was an interesting one. Some people brought their own horses to use during the program, and others, such as myself, rode one of Craig’s horses. We saddled up what we were to be riding and headed to the arena area. Craig set up a course we were to move our horses through to see how we would handle our mounts, and to see how well and smooth we could be. Of course we all made a mistake or two and Craig was there to correct and help us do a better job next time we went through. Everyone reading this has probably ridden for a number of years, and probably feels he or she is a good rider. But how we communicate to a horse what we want it to do is probably a little different in all of us. And therein is the problem. Craig made us all aware on how to properly communicate to a horse what we wish it to do. Even some of the people who had been riding for many years more than I were surprised at how poorly they were communicating with their horse. It was an eye opening experience for all of us. Craig also taught us balance and confidence while in the saddle by riding with our eyes closed and our arms folded across our chest while we rode up and down some moderately steep terrain. There were many other drills he put us through we enabled us to become better horse riders.
Some of the horses brought by their owners had particular problems, which Craig was asked to help correct, which he did. One case involved a horse that would never back out of a trailer. It was about twenty minutes and Craig had him backing out of a horse trailer on a regular basis. I was always constantly amazed at how quickly Craig could get a horse to do what he wanted. None of our horses were used to jumping over logs and other obstacles. In a matter of thirty minutes or so Craig had all of us jumping our horses over a variety of objects with the horses being as comfortable with it as the riders. Every day there were different drills for the horses and the riders. Every day you could see the improvement in the horses and riders as well. It didn’t take long and we were all riding and communicating better with our mounts.
In addition to the variety of programs Craig offers at his ranch in Texas, he conducts horsemanship seminars and colt breaking programs along with other programs at a variety of locations throughout the Midwest and western states. For the last few years he has been conducting horsemanship and colt breaking seminars at the TA Ranch out of Buffalo, WY and other locations in the west. Craig recently bought a historic ranch in New Mexico, the Sheriff Brady Ranch (Brady was killed by Billie The Kid), out of Lincoln, NM where he will be conducting a series of programs as well. If you attend one of his programs at his New Mexico Ranch, you’ll have the opportunity to visit many of the historic sites in the area where the Lincoln County War took place, and see the jail that Billie The Kid broke out of and then killed Sheriff Brady.
For a list of locations where Craig will be conducting his various seminars, or if you wish to have Craig come to your ranch or town to conduct any of his programs call 1-800-274-0077 at his ranch in Texas or contact him at 1-602-549-3260 which is his mobile number. The TA Ranch can be reached at 1-800-368-7398.
While you’re in the area and if you have the time there are a few other places you may wish to visit. The Fossil Rim Wildlife Center, 2155 County Road 2008, Glen Rose, TX 76043-6117 Tel 254-897-4967 offers the viewer the chance to see African game in an unfenced area from your car. It’s a unique experience for adult or kids. Dinosaur Valley State Park, Park Rd 59, Glen Rose, TX 76043 Tel 254-897-4588 offers you the chance to see dinosaur tracks in an ancient streambed that is rare opportunity in a great setting. They are both only a short drive from Craig’s ranch.
Word count 1370
Jerry Sinkovec, Author 5045 Brennan Bend Ammon, ID 83401 208-523-1545
photojournalistjerry@juno.com
Peaceful Valley Ranch
Looking for that great ranch getaway where the whole family can enjoy themselves, where each person is doing their own thing or you can do things together as a family? Well you just found such a place. Peaceful Valley Ranch is located in a narrow valley in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, east of Lyon, CO and 30 minutes south of Estes Park, CO. It’s about a hours drive from Denver. They’ve been in business over 45 years, and are one of Colorado’s most popular family ranch vacation spots. It’s a year round four season dude ranch that has a long list of activities for all ages anytime of the year.
There are a variety of accommodations available at the ranch. From convenient and compact rooms in the main lodge building to spacious family sized cabins with their own fireplace and hot tubs to large motel style rooms at the conference center with their own hot tubs as well. The dinning room in the main lodge building offers three home cooked family style all you can eat meals a day. You’ll never find yourself hungry at the ranch. And if your lucky enough to catch some trout from the St. Vrain River which runs through the property, or from the pond on the ranch, the chef will be happy to cook them up however you’d like to have them prepared. I was happy to have caught three large (about 2 lbs. apiece) trout which I had prepared with orange slices in the cavity and on both sides of the fish and then broiled. It fed six people for dinner that evening. Everyone loved the simple and delicious way they were prepared.
You’ll find the employees are from all parts of the globe, which makes your stay at the ranch all the more interesting. The fly fishing guide and instructor is from South Africa. I had him give me some lessons one morning which really helped my technique. I attribute my success at catching those three large trout to his skillful tutelage.
What tops the list of activities at the ranch is their riding program. In the evening, on your arrival day, there is a 45 minute riding orientation program, where all the basic information is given out verbally and by demonstration. Over the following days your given the opportunity to take riding lessons if you don’t have the experience, or ride slow or fast rides, according to your ability. You can ride either with other adults and all the kids go riding in their own group, or together as a family with other families. There are plenty of wranglers to help with the kids or adults. There are a variety of trails with new vistas to behold around every corner. They offer breakfast and chuckwagon rides along with hayrides. They also offer exciting overnight trips above timberline which are only for the hardier experienced riders. You’ll have a chance to experience the high country and see the major mountains and beautiful vistas of the continental divide in the area, cross huge snowfields, see plenty of wildlife, fish for trout in alpine lakes, see a double rainbow after a storm if your lucky enough, and camp under the stars. It’s an experience not to be missed. There are plenty of photographic opportunities on the trip as well.
They have plenty of kids activities and programs to keep them busy and happy if you and your other wish to go out on your own. They have a completely supervised children’s program for the little buckaroos three and up with trained counselors. They also have a variety of programs for adults as well which include jewelry making, painting and other crafts. In addition to riding, there is hiking, mountain biking, swimming in the indoor pool, golf is nearby as well as sightseeing. If your a shotgunner, one of the wranglers will be happy to throw clay birds for you from a hand thrower. They are looking at putting in a wobble/ATA trap for their guests if requests increase. They also have a whirlpool and sauna for those that have some aches and pains from a hard day of riding. In the evenings, they have children’s entertainment and programs as well as line and square dancing for the adults. If you prefer, you can relax and wash the trail dust of the day down with your favorite cocktail or a good micro-brewery beer in the lounge, or just relax with a good book.
In the winter months, there is snowmobiling, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, alpine skiing, sleigh rides and horseback riding, weather permitting. No matter what time of the year you plan on going to the ranch, your going to have the opportunity to do a variety of activities or just lay back and enjoy yourself doing absolutely nothing. All the seasonal activities, meals and lodging are included in the rates, so you know the exact cost of your get-a-way in advance.
The ranch is managed by the able Dick and Karen Gann who will make sure you vacation is a happy, pleasant and memorable one. For an information packet along with a rate sheet contact: Peaceful Valley Ranch, 475 Peaceful Valley Road, Lyons, CO 80540-8951. Or call them at 800-955-6343, 303-747-2881. Their fax is 303-747-2167. You can also log on and see their web site at www.peacefulvalley.com. And e-mail is: howdy@peacefulvalley.com
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Jerry Sinkovec photojournalistjerry@juno.com
Rand Creek Ranch
The Rand Creek Ranch is a historical facility located midway between Cody, WY and the east entrance to Yellowstone Park, which puts you in an ideal location. You’re close to all the attractions, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, the Cody Rodeo and a selection of restaurants and shops in Cody while not being that far away from the park. It really offers you the best of both worlds. Originally, the ranch was a stagecoach stop where it’s passengers from Cody and points east were brought to Yellowstone Park or Buffalo Bill’s ranch, which is still located just outside the east entrance to the park. Buffalo Bill himself was often a passenger and stopped at Rand Creek or had a meal there.
The ranch offers horseback riding and fishing at their pond. There are fish in the pond, which most people aren’t able to catch it seems, but they are good eating, which I can attest to. It takes a little skill and knowledge about trout in order to catch them. But if you understand what and where you’re fishing, you’ll pull out some big ones. In less than 15 minutes I caught five over 18” and put three of them back. The other two became dinner for myself and three other people. They have both native and stocked in the pond. If you catch a good one they’ll cook them up for you any way you like.
The horseback riding consists of short morning or afternoon rides as they figure you’ll either be sight seeing in the park or in Cody. You’ll always have a guide with you who can fill you in on the scenery and history of the area. You usually ride up behind the ranch for the shorter rides. If you want to go for an all day or half-day ride you’ll have to do a little talking. Be sure and carry a camera with you if you go on a longer ride, as you’ll find some beautiful vistas that open up for you.
The accommodations are in cabins some of which are new and have a fireplace and other amenities. Other cabins are older and don’t have all the amenities but are still very comfortable. All have private baths. When making reservations be sure and advise them of the type of lodging you’d prefer. The main lodge building is where you’ll take breakfast and dinner, as lunch isn’t served at the ranch since most people are away during the day. The food at Rand Creek Ranch is delicious and is served family style so you can have second helpings if you like. And as I mentioned, they’ll cook any fish you catch the way you like, as long as you clean them first.
There is a great deal of history associated with the ranch since it was once a stage stop where Buffalo Bill and other notables of the era stopped and either took a meal or spent the night. They have the old register and other important documents with some interesting signatures. Ask the owner to see some of the old registers and other mementos. You’ll find it interesting if you like history.
If you’re into rock climbing, there are some rock outcroppings on the backside of the ranch, which offer a variety of routes, which require a rope and protection. You should have a knowledgeable climbing partner and the proper equipment to be safe. They also offer clay target shooting at certain times, so be sure and pack your shotgun. They also have a fishing guide available to take you to some of the better fly-fishing locations in the area. He also gives fly fishing instruction if you’re interested.
For further information or making reservations contact:
Rand Creek Ranch 3064 North Fork Highway Cody, WY 82414
888-412-7335 www.randcreekranch.com
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Author Jerry Sinkovec photojournalistjerry@juno.com
Remuda
It’s a small word that packs a lot of action and excitement into it’s meaning. Remuda, in the Southwest, a group of extra saddle horses kept as a supply of remounts. By it’s very nature, it’s a moving and driving of horses from one point to another point.
The first time I ever did a remuda was up in Wyoming for Horseworks, with about thirty horses we had to push 55 miles in a day and a half, from Grass Creek, WY to Thermopolis for riders on the Outlaw Trail Ride. It was fun, fast, fantastic, fagging, exciting and a memorable experience that left you with a feeling of accomplishment. I’d never turn down an opportunity to work a remuda because of the fast pace and excitement it generates.
In talking with a lot of old timers, even the big ranches pushing 10,000, 20,000 or even 40,000 head of cattle would have only had a remuda of 200 to 300 horses, if that big. It was really determined by the number of cowboy’s working the herd. They always had one or two extra horses for each cowboy.
Recently, I had the opportunity to participate twice in the largest remuda ever in America with over 1,000 horses moving 30 mile a day for two days. It happens twice a year in N. W. Colorado. In December, the horses are pushed from the ranch to their winter range, and in May the horses are brought back to the ranch. Nowhere else in America can this happen because no one else has over 1,200 horses on a ranch anywhere in America. The remuda usually won’t have 1,200 horses in it as there are usually some which may be lame or need shoes which are either being worked on or are being trucked to their destination.
In December, its pitch black and cold outside when you get up at approximately 5:00 AM. You get dressed as warm as you can and head for breakfast. After you’ve eaten your fill and had that fourth cup of hot coffee, you head out to get the horse that’s assigned to you for the remuda. You saddle up with only a hint of light on the eastern horizon, which would have been impossible except for the light in the corral area. There’s a little waiting around while horses are roped and everyone else gets their horse and gets saddled.
On the far side of the staging area, is the gate to the field with all the horses ready to be pushed to their winter grazing grounds. They have been gathered up over the last week from the far reaches of the ranch. They seem to know what’s going be happening as there is tension and excitement in the air among them. Without any notice or warning, the horses are released and it sounds like a stampede with all the hoofs thundering by. The stream of horses seems to be never ending as they are off at a fast trot, and it seems like several minutes have passed and there are still horses coming out of the gate. I have to swing into the saddle and be off before all my camera gear has been secured properly. It’s still too dark to take any photographs, especially from horseback with all the movement. But I’m ready to shoot at first good light.
In about a mile, the pace slows down slightly and the horses are under a fair degree of control. Rider’s make sure horses don’t escape up side roads or deviate from the intended direction of travel. The horses are still packed fairly close together, but over time they’ll begin to string out for a couple of miles. The pace is fairly fast and there is excitement in the horses and yourself as well. It’s a visually exciting experience. If something is going to happen or go wrong, it’ll be at the start of the remuda with the sudden push of horses. If you’re not ready, or if you can’t control your horse, you’re in trouble.
It’s not for someone without any riding experience. You should have some riding experience and know how to control a horse with confidence. If you can, it’ll be one of the most memorable experiences you’ll ever have on horseback.
As the sky lightens, and the pace slows a little, things take shape and begin to fall into place. Cowboys and riders are all doing their respective jobs properly by keeping the horses headed in the right direction and from breaking away from the main herd. A party atmosphere invades the group as the tension is released, and everyone relaxes. The light is great, and I start taking photographs. I go through five rolls of film on the first day and realize how hard it is to photograph 1,000 horses, which are strung one for a couple of miles. The first day’s drive is through an area with some homes and a very small town we go through. We push them for about thirty miles until we reach some corrals in an isolated area where the horses are fed and kept for the night. In the evening, after a warm filling meal, the cowboys and riders celebrate with some good music, singing and of course a little liquid refreshment.
The second day’s drive brings us into some remote country with spectacular scenery, which is rich in history of the old west. With all vestiges of man left behind, you feel like your part of the old west. The scenery is ever changing and ideal for photography. It’s another 30 miles, but the time seems to pass rapidly as the horses arrive at another set of corrals where they are counted before they are released to their open winter range.
Yes, it’s dusty, dirty, and tiring, but it’s exciting as no other riding experience in life. Even cowboys long since passed on would opt for a chance to participate in something so grand if they would have had the opportunity. Nowhere, at any time previously, has anyone accumulated so many horses as to have a remuda as large as 1,000 or 1,200 horses. It can only happen in Colorado, and it’s limited to a maximum of twenty guest riders at either of the two remudas annually.
This year accommodations will include six nights lodging at a local top rated motel and it’s hoped to have special guest cowboy singer, Brenn Hill, from Utah to entertain the folks the last few evenings of the remuda. Also included will be three days of riding and training at the ranch prior to the two-day remuda. Lunch each day and one cookout at the ranch are included. The motel has an indoor pool and hot tub along with a fine restaurant and nightclub for your entertainment and relaxation.
For information and prices on the limited number of openings for the December and May remuda contact Ride The West. Space fills up fast on this remuda, so don't wait until the last minute or you'll miss out on the experience of a lifetime.
Ride The West 505-836-1206 HorseWorks 307-867-2367 Brenn Hill CD’s 801-392-5748 Outlaw Trail Ride 888-362-7433
Word count 1174
Author: Jerry Sinkovec, 2915 Estrella Brillante NW Albuquerque, NM 87120 photojournalistjerry@juno.com
Riding the Outlaw Trail
Author
Jerry Sinkovec
The west is rich in history. We’ve all heard tales, read books or seen movies of the more notable characters and events at one time or another during our lives. But it isn’t often we have a chance to relive, see or experience the times or places that made our history so exciting and notable. Riding the Outlaw Trail in Wyoming, is an opportunity to experience our wild and rich history.
My trip started with a telephone conversation with Nate Brown, a seventy-seven year old cowboy and horse wrangler who heads up HorseWorks, the major supplier of horses to the Outlaw Trail Ride group. He wanted to know my riding experience so as to match me up with the right horse. During our conversation, he asked me if I was interested in riding in a two day remuda from Grass Creek, WY to Thermopolis, WY, about fifty miles. Never having done one, and not really sure what it entailed, I jumped at the opportunity.
Three days prior to the start of the Outlaw Trail Ride, I arrived in Grass Creek and met up with Nate and Maecile Brown. Along with a few other people who were doing the remuda, we went out riding on several different horses to find to one we felt the most comfortable with. Mine happened to be a seventeen hand black gelding named Black Gold. A magnificent horse.
We were up before the sun the next morning, saddling our broncs, packing our gear and then having our breakfast. We opened up the corral gate, and out raced twenty-eight excited horses, wanting to get somewhere fast. I quickly learned this wasn’t going to be a slow ride. The horses moved at a fast trot as did we, and never slowed down until we came upon a creek where they watered down, as did our horses and the riders. It was an exciting experience to be moving that many horses and to be keeping them together at such a fast pace. We covered about five miles to the creek and the other forty five were about as fast. We received a warm greeting, especially from the children, who had never seen such a sight, as we brought the remuda into Thermopolis. We were all dust covered from two days on the trail and camping out, so we looked forward to a hot shower and a soft bed before we started out again the next morning.
The next morning, we loaded the horses into trailers and ourselves into buses and headed to the east side of the Big Horn Mountains where we’d start the ride back to Thermopolis. The scenery was dramatic and ever changing. When we arrived at our drop off point, the chuckwagon which got there before us, had everything spread out for a great lunch. That, and all the other meals never left anything to be desired. I knew I wouldn’t be losing any weight on this trip.
Our drop off point was a valley about ten miles south of the Hole In the Wall, which was made famous by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and their Hole In The Wall gang. As we rode north, a large red sandstone wall, the Chugwater Formation, about four hundred feet high angled ever so slightly upward, with not a crack, ledge, or alluvial fan that would give you access to the top. For ten miles, the red wall grew more formidable. As we came over a rise, there was the Hole In The Wall, a small break in the red wall that allowed access to the top and was easily defended by one or two men. As we got closer you could see more detail and understand why it was chosen as their hideout and escape route. On top, they could see riders approaching from five or ten miles around, and when on top one or two men could easily hold off a posse of ten or twelve men. And if need be, they could escape to the east and be long gone before anyone could get to the top. In the valley, they had corrals and a few buildings with good water from a nearby creek. And it was all well hidden until you were almost right on top of it. It was the perfect hiding place, and was one of the reasons they were so elusive.
We spent time in the area discussing some of the gunfights that took place in the vicinity, and artifacts that have been recovered. A historian traveled with the group to give us information on what we were seeing and the activities that took place there. We camped there that night, next to the sweetwater stream that rippled, swirled and bubbled us to sleep that night. No doubt some of us dreamed of Butch, Sundance and some of their exploits that night.
Every morning we rose before the sun to break camp, and get our horse taken care of. After a hardy breakfast, we were in the saddle again riding into unexplored country and history. During the day we’d see wild game, interesting geology, Indian petroglyphs great sunsets and experience new friends and a different way of life as we rode the trails. We experienced a variety of new things every day we’d never have a chance to in the cities. In the evenings, after chores and a good meal, we’d enjoy cowboy music and songs along with some cowboy poetry from Nate Brown. Nate is so multi-talented, I guess you’d have to call him the Renaissance Cowboy. Some evenings, the historian would give us a talk on some of the things we saw that day, or were to see the next. Every day and evening was a new adventure. To experience it, your going to have to slide into the saddle and give your horse some spur.
The following numbers will assist you in making arrangements for a trip to Wyoming. HorseWorks 307-867-2367 Outlaw Trail Ride 888-362-7433 Thermopolis C of C 800-786-6772 Wyoming Dept. of Tourism 800-225-5996
Word Count 1095
Riding With General Custer
Every now and then we have a chance to experience something unique that is exciting, a learning experience, thrilling, informative and relive a bit of history to boot. I had that opportunity, when I joined the Seventh Cavalry in Montana recently. There is an outfit called Davis Creek Camp located outside Hardin, MT that offers a once a year experience to relive the Battle of the Little Big Horn every June. It’s an opportunity not to be missed if you enjoy horseback riding, adventure, great scenery, history and the thrill of dying every day, and resurrecting yourself of course.
When I arrived at camp along with about a dozen other misfits escaping civilization for two weeks, the first thing they had us do was form a line (what else do they have you do in the Cavalry) to register to join the 7th. The papers were the same forms used 130 years ago, and asked the same questions, and I’m sure some of us lied about our occupation just as they did then to escape the law, a bad marriage or whatever. I told them I was a photographer that had studied under Mathew Brady. That got their attention, but no privileges.
I had a chance to meet the other enlistees from Ohio, New York, California, some with riding experience, others with none. The oldest was in his seventies, so his age fit the group. We were issued Cavalry uniforms, a saddle and tack, sabers, carbine and pistol. The next day we had a chance to pick out our horses. We were required to take care of our horses for the next two weeks, so we learned not only how to saddle and bridle them, but how to feed and curry them properly. It was interesting, because the more time we spent with our horses, a bond developed between us. And I know the same thing happened to almost all the other troopers. Some even ended up going back and purchased their horse at the end of the season.
Every morning we’d rise to the sound of reveille. We’d have to get our bunks make up properly for an inspection and fall out for inspection and the raising of old glory before breakfast. The food at all the meals was good and was prepared by two women who ran the camp kitchen. The morning would be spent drilling on various tactics and a little marching. We’d learn how to fight with a Cavalry saber, fire black powder cannon and fire our carbines and revolvers with live ammunition at targets at various distances. I won an award for being the only one to put six rounds from my revolver into a 10-inch target at twenty yards. In the afternoon, we’d go on half-day rides and practice riding in different Cavalry formations and do different drills on horseback, and at the same time see some mighty interesting country. We’d also practice doing the different charges used by the Cavalry from that time period. Through the course of the day, the two owners/operators who portrayed Reno and Custer at the camp filled us in on a lot of the history not only of the two men and their troopers, but also of the region and the battle itself. It was a living history lesson, and you became a part of the history.
As our bottoms got used to the McClellen saddles, and they were quite comfortable, we started doing two half day rides, eating twice as much dust and dirt, and seeing even more of the country that had some interesting geology. It was impressive to see the change in the men and horses after a week, as they became one coordinated fighting unit. We looked quite dashing and a bit jaunty as we trooped back into camp in a great formation that even brought out the camp followers for the review. The Bugler blew the Garry Owen as we rode past, a striking tribute considering it was our last day in camp. It was all to prepare for the big event that would take place after ten days of training. We even had trained the horses to get used to the sound of guns going off by first getting them used to firecrackers and then real blank ammunition.
When the big day arrived, we awoke at two in the morning. It was June 26th. Everything was pitch black. We had to saddle our horses in the darkness and get everything ready for the long day before us. The ride was to duplicate Custer’s ride to the Crow’s Nest from the area of what is now Busby, MT. We took off slowly at first because of the darkness. We inched our way through narrow defiles and forest and then stared climbing a ridge that led us to the summit of what is called the Crow’s Nest. There was little talk as we waited in the chill morning air. It was still pitch black, with only a faint orange glow on the horizon in the east. It was over a half an hour before the sun burst forth with its energy giving warmth. It took another half an hour before the sun’s first rays illuminated the area of the Little Big Horn to the northwest. We strained to see what we could see, just as Custer had over one hundred years ago and could only make out what would become known as Weir Point. We couldn’t see into the river bottom because of the morning haze just as it had hampered Custer. We had no idea as to how many Indians would be greeting us in their own fashion.
It was a hideously hot day. We had ridden over fifteen miles and we were only half way there. It was past noon, and we were already running out of water and food. Tempers flared. There was still a battle to be fought. When we approached the southeast section of the monument, we knew we were getting close. We rode along the monument boundary for several miles before we cut across the Battle of the Little Bighorn Monument. As we crossed the fields and the tourists got a look at us, their jaws just dropped, and their eyes opened wide in amazement. Some of them waved. They couldn’t believe what they were seeing, the Seventh Cavalry, Troop C being led by Custer with the banners flying. With the spirited Garry Owen coming from the bugler, it only added to eerie atmosphere and brought goose bumps to my skin in the oppressive heat. Cameras were clicking like grasshoppers and video cameras were purring away till their batteries went dead. It was a Kodak moment. It was quite awesome for the tourists and ourselves, considering the place, and date.
When we crossed the monument we came to a field where some other troopers were assembled. They had advised us an Indian group across the river was doing a Battle of the Little Big Horn reenactment, which they were a part of, and we were invited to partake if we were interested. We all decided to participate to relieve the stress of the hard ride.
The event is located less than one hundred yards from where Reno crossed the river on his ill-fated attack on the Indian village. Now we were about to embark on a charge across the river to attack a mock Indian village. You could see hundreds of spectators beyond the village on the other side of the river. All was quite in the Indian village. After a few minutes of discussion on what order the troopers were to ford the river we assembled in the charge formation.
The bugler sounded the charge, and we put our horses to the gallop. We drew our pistols and were ready for battle. The two hundred yards to the river flashed by, we were suddenly in the swift moving cold river above our knees. Our horses struggled in the force full water. The first troopers were up the opposite steep riverbank and the first shots were being fired into the Indian camp. As water dripped from the horses and riders alike, the normally dry steep bank became slicker than axle grease, and some horses and riders went down. As I approached the bank, I tried to find a spot were few horses had gone up and the dirt was relatively dry. My horse made a mighty leap from the water and was up the slope in a few struggling steps. Indians were running everywhere. We fired at the closest targets, but more Indians keep coming, gunfire was everywhere. A large band on horseback came at us from our left flank and the retreat was sounded. It seemed like an eternity, but it was only a few minutes and we were back in the swiftly flowing river trying to reach the high ground. The smell of gunpowder and smoke was everywhere, as were the mounting number of bodies of Indians and troopers alike.
We headed to the highest point with the Indians at our heels. I decided to die towards the end of the battle, so I wouldn’t have to lie around while all the other guys were still having fun. Once atop the hill, we released the horses to continue our firing at the ever-attacking Indians. No matter how many Indians we dropped, they just kept coming. We were suffering many casualties as well. I was finally down to about 10 rounds of ammo and I knew it was hopeless. Then it happened, the searing pain in my neck and I knew I was done for. As I faded into darkness, the gunfire continued, but it was almost all from the Indians.
A few minutes later, all was quite except for the whooping and hollering of the victorious Indians. After a few more minutes of lying motionless on the ground, and an announcement over the loudspeaker system, we all resurrected ourselves to the applause of hundreds of happy spectators.
The next three days were spent in the town of Hardin, Montana, where the local Chamber of Commerce along with hundreds of participants, Indian and whites, including us, the Seventh Cavalry, acted in four plays. The over two hour outdoor drama about the development of the west, starts with the early mountain men coming into the country for furs and pelts, tells of the wagon trains with the emigrants looking for land, deals with the many treaties with the Indians that were broken and ends with the Battle of the Little Big Horn. The outdoor drama is well scripted with many dramatic moments and with lots of Cavalry action and a great battle scene for the finale. The stands are packed with over 8,000 people for each performance, which is always sold out. It’s a great event to be a part of as a Cavalry trooper, but shouldn’t be missed as a spectator either.
One evening during the last three days in Hardin, there is a Grand Military Ball, which all the Cavalry attend in addition to many of the tourists and locals. The guest list is quite extensive, and includes Gen. George Custer, along with many people that were important to him during his life including the Prince of Russia in full regalia, whom he hunted with years before the famous battle. Everyone is dressed in authentic period clothing and we all enjoyed doing the dances of the period, which included Virginia Reels and the like. It was an evening never to be forgotten.
For information on being a participant at Davis Creek Camp or for seeing the Battle of the Little Big Horn reenactment at Hardin, contact the following: Davis Creek Camp 406-342-5423 Hardin C of C 406-665-1672 Billings C of C 800-735-2635 Montana Tourism Board 800-541-1447
Word count 1970
Author Jerry Sinkovec
Starving Horses
Rounding up wild horses can be one of the more exciting experiences you can have as a cowboy or horse person. I’ve been involved with remudas as large as 1,000 horses in Colorado and rounded up as many as thirty wild horses in Wyoming. The speed, the sound of the pounding hoofs, the thrill of the chase and gather is like no other on earth. It’s an experience and a celebration of a way of life that has become scarcer each year.
Over a month ago a small band of wild New Mexican horses was gathered on the Laguna Pueblo and brought to some corrals near the village of Encinal, under whose control the horses would remain until they were picked up buy the New Mexico Horse Project. The horses were gathered to remove some of the pressure on the grazing land of the pueblo, which uses the land for raising cattle and sheep. The horses were going to be held at the corrals until all the necessary blooding data, and paperwork and moving arrangements could be made. The New Mexico Horse Project advised the Laguna people they have hay and feed available for the horses if needed, and they picked up some of the feed, over two tons. The horses remained at the corrals for four weeks before they were to be picked up. The horses were healthy and strong when left at the corrals, and photographs were taken of them at that time which shows the good condition the horses were in at the time.
On the day we were to pick up the horses, we were to do another roundup of some other horses close to the village of Encinal. After we set up the steel pipe corrals in one area, it was decided to try and round up some horses in another area, so we had to move the entire operation. It turned out to be a confusing and sad morning.
When we got to the new roundup area, it was where the horses, which were gathered earlier, were being held. When we saw the horses, we couldn’t believe our eyes. It was like seeing some of the WW II films of the Nazi concentration camps. The horse’s look as starved as the people did in those films, or worse. The fellow who was responsible for the horses, Danny Manuelito, said: “they got sick,” when asked about the condition of the horses. Now, I’m no veterinarian, but I can tell the difference between a sick horse and a starved horse. That guy had a lot of smart answers for all the questions asked of him, but he never answered one truthfully. The third roll of hay, which was picked up from the NMHP was still on the truck that picked it up and was never given to the horses. I wondered what was done with the hay that was picked up earlier.
The veterinarian who donates his time to the group stated the horses were definitely starved when he saw them. Two of the horses were given 12 hours to see if they could be saved, but they were eventually put down. The other horses were held to see if they could be brought back to good health before being released to a preserve.
The horses were to be moved to a preserve east of Albuquerque where they were to have been released with other horses, which had been gathered from other locations in New Mexico. There, they would have 10,000 acres of land to roam with plenty of good grazing and water. The Campbell Farming Corp. of Albuquerque donated the use of the land. Several hundred people watched the release of the horses to the preserve a few weeks ago and thousands had also seen the release on channel 4 and channel 7 on television. It’s a shame the horses couldn’t be released to the preserve as planned because of their poor condition.
There was no reason for starving the horses. Other horses which had been gathered on the Laguna Pueblo land, from which we were able to save a few, have been sold to slaughter houses. That is no way for a distinct breed of horse to end up. It seems the pueblo is only interested in the money it can make by selling the horses for slaughter. It would be better public relations for the Laguna Pueblo if they gave the horses to interested groups, individuals or breeders and horse trainers, but they don’t seem to have any interest in saving a unique breed of horse, The New Mexican. It’s seems all the more incredible that American Indians were starving the horses, since they always profess to be as one with the earth and with all living things on the mother earth. They profess that mother earth and all things upon it are sacred. If that’s true, they committed a sacrilege on the horses. The Laguna Pueblo people should be ashamed of themselves. I think the people of New Mexico and other states should make the pueblo aware of their feelings.
I think all interested people should let the Laguna Pueblo know they won’t tolerate that kind of treatment to any horses on their property, even if they do consider them a problem. A program such as The New Mexico Horse Project or something similar to the BLM Wild Horse program could be set up to save the horses from slaughter. I can’t believe the pueblo is so hard up for money that they have to send horses to slaughter.
I want the readers to know I’m no animal rights activist, because I don’t like what they stand for, but I see no reason for making the horses suffer and die as the Laguna Pueblo Indians did in this case. If you feel something should be done to correct the problem, or want to prevent it from happening again, you can write to: Laguna Pueblo, Attn: Gov. Harry Early, POB 194, Laguna, NM 87026, or call the pueblo at 505-552-6654 and let them know your feelings.
Words 1015
Author Jerry Sinkovec
Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch
The Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch is located just west of Loveland, CO off highway 34, which takes you into Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. So if you want to hoop and holler and cowboy it up you’ve got everything you’d ever need right there at the ranch. And if you want get up into the park and enjoy the beauty and serenity, you’re only a short drive away. It offer’s you the best of both worlds.
The ranch has a variety of accommodations from large and roomy individual frame cabins that will sleep from two to eight to bunkhouse style rooms that will sleep one or two people. They have something to fit every budget. Some of the accommodations are close in to the main facility while others are a little distance away; it just depends on how much privacy you want.
The original ranch goes back to the 1870’s, but all the buildings are much newer. In 1976 there was the Big Thompson River flood which almost wiped out the ranch, so all the buildings are from that period or newer. They have the capability to hold large conferences at the ranch, as well as having not only weddings there, but the wedding receptions as well. The ranch is also one of the few ranches that are open year round for your year round enjoyment. That also means they have their own string of horses, which you ride, rather than them leases horses for the summer. It just means you’ll get a better horse and a better ride.
If you’ve never ridden before, or if you’re not too confident about your riding ability, this is the place to come to. They have some great programs for kids and adults to learn how to ride properly, or to build your confidence while riding horses. You’ll spend a lot of time in the round pen or the arena working with the horse to develop a good working relationship. Not many ranches offer the kind of training they do in their ranch vacations. When your ready for a trail ride, you’ll have the opportunity to ride out and see some beautiful country.
During the week I was there, most of the people had no or little riding experience, so most of the trail rides tended to be 1 or 1 ½ hour rides which are two short for me. If you really like doing longer rides (3 to 4 hours, or all day rides), make sure you go there when there are more accomplished riders staying there as well and make sure you’ll be able to do the longer rides during the week your planning on being there. I like doing the longer rides because that’s when you really see some of the grandeur and majesty of the mountains and surrounding area. The shorter rides just don’t get you into the real beautiful and rugged country that makes riding really enjoyable. You’ll have a chance to see wild turkey, bears, deer, elk, and if you’re lucky, golden eagles. They do offer an overnight trip into cow camp, which is comprised of two half-day rides later in the week. You can also be involved in a cattle drive if your interested, just make sure they’ll be having one when you make your reservations. You should be able to accomplish just about anything in the area of riding if you plan it out well.
The most interesting and enjoyable ride was the one to Cow Camp, which is about a three-hour ride. You spend the night at a remote camp where you have the choice to sleep out under the stars, or in one of the old buildings. You cook around a campfire if there isn’t any fire danger and sing old cowboy songs into the late of the evening. If you’re lucky enough to be there in August as we were, you might be lucky enough to see a nice meteor shower.
They have a variety of programs for the kids so you’ll be able to have someone watching over them while you pursue your interests. The ranch usually has quite a few kids there with their parents, and it’s a great place for large families to go. They also offer adult only weeks, when none of the wee one’s are around, which I would have preferred, but my schedule didn’t permit it. You’ll probably have an opportunity for longer rides at that time as well.
The ranch has a series of lakes and ponds on the property where you stay but on some other property down the road as well. They all offer great trout fishing and bass fishing, as is the case in one lake down the road. And to top that off, you have the swift flowing Big Thompson River running right through the property for premier trout fishing. I know the fishing was great because I had a father and son team at my dinner table telling me how much fun they had each day. They never rode; they were there just for the fishing. They also have a western dance night and a Field of your Dreams baseball game that everyone can get into. There is plenty to do at the ranch for both the kids and adults. There is also golf and white water rafting nearby, but when I go to a ranch, I go to ride. The ranch also has a few tennis cou |